Mrs. Hursts Blue Morning Gown

One of my least favorite gowns in Pride and Prejudice, Mrs. Hurst seems to wear this gown a lot. I don't have a picture of the back of this dress, but you can assume that the back is basically a typical Regency dress back.

Front: The fabric of the dress is light blue with a silver fancy diamond pattern. There are six buttons in the front, but these buttons appear to be decorations. This dress is also accessorized with a lace collar, lace shawl/fichu, and mob cap.

Front/Partial Side View: There's a slight puff to the long sleeve. You can also see a full picture of the lace shawl/fichu.

Jane Bennet's Blue Spencers

There are two spencers featured here. I decided to put them into one post because they were so similar and there were only slight differences between them. Like Elizabeth's spencers, Jane's spencers are always paired with a white dress.

Spencer #1 Full View: There are two buttons at the bottom of the spencer that close the spencer.

Spencer #1 Front/Side View: There seem to be decorative buttons on the sleeve with triangular shapes going from the button to the sleeve.



Spencer #2 Front View: Slight differences: instead of only two buttons at the bottom for closure, there appear to be three buttons at the bottom and two more buttons above them.

Spencer #2 Side View: Here appears to be the same spencer as #1 sans buttons at the sides.

I didn't have any pictures of the back view, but I would assume that the back would be the standard Regency back.

Assorted Chemisettes and Kerchiefs/Fichus

Throughout Pride and Prejudice, some characters wear either chemisettes or kerchiefs (fichus). Chemisettes and fichus were worn both for modesty and warmth. They would be tucked into the bodice.

Mrs. Bennet's chemisette: Lots of frills

Kitty and Lydia's chemisettes: Kitty has the chemisette with lots of frills while Lydia has a collar chemisette. I remembered seeing a Simplicity pattern that had a chemisette similar to Lydia's, but I think it's unavailable now. You might have to look at E-bay or other pattern websites.

Mrs. Gardiner's chemisette: Not as many frills as Mrs. Bennet's.

Elizabeth's and Jane's Kerchiefs/Fichus: I wasn't sure what to call them exactly. They are in the shape of fichus, but fichus are usually tucked into the bodice. Pretty much it's a triangular piece of fabric that you can tie as shown. They look like their decorated with some white embroidery on white tulle or some sort of veil fabric.

Kitty Bennet's Purple Spencer

Kitty must only really have one spencer. This is the only spencer that I have seen her in. If you watched the 2007 version of Persuasion, this spencer may look familiar.

Front View: Really, there are only two fabric colors: a purpleish, greyish color (would it be called a light puce?) and a darker purple. The collar and cuffs done in this dark purple appear to be velvet or velour.

Close-up of Front View: There appear to be two darts on Kitty's spencer.

Partial Side View: Just a side view. You get a closer view of the black buttons.

Back View: To me, it looks like the back is one piece, not the typical Regency back with a couple of pieces.

Kitty and Lydia Bennet's Red Cape

Kitty and Lydia have the same exact red cape. In fact, there isn't a scene where one wears it and the other doesn't; they always wear them together. They also wear their usual spencers underneath (notice a little bit of Kitty's purple spencer and Lydia's patterned spencer).

Front View: Both capes are red and are secured with a two ribbons that are tied together in a bow. There is a hood on both...

Back View: And here's the hood! The hood is gathered at the edge. It appears that the hood is a rather large one, probably so the wearer could have their bonnet on and be fully covered by the hood.

Jane Bennet's Pink Summer Gown

This dress is seen on Jane when the weather is warm outside.

Full Front View: The bodice is V-necked and has a darker pink trim around the neck line and waist line. The trim along the neck line criss-crosses. The bottom of the dress is a darker pink then the rest of the dress.

Front View: You can see more detail in the trim on the bodice. There is also a decorate (but smaller than the neckline trim) trim along the bottom of the sleeve. There is also a puff to the sleeve.

Back View: Sorry the picture isn't the best. The pink trim along the waistline continues in the back of the dress.

Assorted Lace Caps

Lace caps were worn by married women or old maids. They came in a variety of styles. Pride and Prejudice features a lot of different lace cap styles. There appear to be three kinds of lace caps in Pride and Prejudice: the lace caps that you see commonly, the mobcap, and the draped cap.

Lace Caps



Mrs. Bennet's Lace Cap: Who could forget Mrs. Bennet's lace cap? It just suits her so well! It seems to be made out of some kind of sheer material. Something that appears to be a little pink flower sits right in the middle of the edge of the cap.

Charlotte's Lace Cap: Charlotte would wear a lace cap before she was married only when going outside in her bonnet (more on that later). But, since she married Mr. Collins, she always wears the lace cap except for some evenings at Rosings. It's a fairly plain lace cap: no ribbons or flowers. There is a little bit of lace with a design, but overall, it's a very plain cap.

Mrs. Philips's Lace Cap: Mrs. Philip's lace cap is decorated very similarly to Mrs. Bennet's. There is a little pink ribbon in the center of the edge. There does seem to be more veiling on her cap then Mrs. Bennet's.

Mobcaps

Mrs. Hurst's Mobcap: Mobcaps were kind of like the lace caps above, but lace caps were a little lighter. They weren't as popular in the Regency era as they had been earlier. Mrs. Hurst has her mobcap trimmed with pink ribbons and ruffles.

Draped Cap

Lady Catherine's Draped Cap: Lady Catherine has the draped cap, which I read at this link was kind of like a skirt placed on top of the head. There was a band of fabric that supported the draped fabric that ran down the sides and back. Lady Catherine's draped cap does have fancy veiling, but it's not as decorated as you would think, since she is rich and we would assume that she would want fancy decorations.

Caps under Bonnets: Of course, some women wore lace caps under their bonnets. You can see here that Mrs. Gardiner and Charlotte both wear lace caps under their bonnets. This picture of Charlotte was from when before she was married; perhaps because she was twenty seven, she thought that she wasn't going to get married?

I used this source to find out information about lace caps: here. If you want to read further, you can try there.

Charlotte Lucas's Evening Gown

Charlotte wears this dress during evening dinners or parties. I didn't get a full picture of the dress, but the pictures I did get would be enough to get a good idea what the dress is like.

Close-up Front View: There is a little split in the sleeves, like it had been pleated so that there is that split. You can also see there is a ribbon in the middle of the neckline. The print of the fabric is striped with dark blue (or navy) and light blue with gold dots that appear to run across the dress like there was ribbon there. The neck line also appears to have a little bit of lace and a darker under dress (there are two parts of this dress which is discussed below).

Partial Full View: A bit cut off, but still provides a lot of detail. The dress is made up of two parts: an overlay and an underdress. The overlay has the navy, light blue, and gold fabric, while the dress has a dark blue (though I'm not sure I would call it navy) with darker blue dots. You can also see the direction the fabric pattern is going for the overlay in this picture.

Side View: Around the slit in the sleeve, there is a gold pattern running down the sleeve. I would say it was a fabric ribbon decoration, since you can still see the pattern through the ribbon. There is also a gold tassel hanging down from the middle of the sleeve. It's hard to see in this picture, but it looks like there is a similar opening on the back of the skirt as there is on the front.

There doesn't appear to be a front or back opening to the overlay, but I would assume that the openings would be on the underdress and that this dress just fits on top of the underdress.

Thursday: Dressing the Characters -- Period Drama Fashion Week

We all know that it takes talent to properly portray a character on film. The actor or actress has to understand the character and act as the character would act. And aside from the actors/actresses, the director has to see what they are doing and make suggestions on how to act. But what about the clothes they are wearing? Shouldn't the clothes on the character describe their personality also?

Costumers also have to understand the characters they are clothing and dress them in a way that fits their personality (but keep the clothes historically accurate too :-P). For instance, if a new version of Mansfield Park were to be released (let's hope for a good one one day!), Fanny Price, since she is a very modest, moral character, should be dressed very modestly: the necklines of her dresses shouldn't be low and fichus or chemisettes to fill in the neckline of her gown would be a good choice for her.

So what were some examples of good costuming to describe the characters?

Pearl and Ruby Pratt from Lark Rise to Candleford

These sisters are snobby and (since they are dressmakers) keep up with the latest fashions. They are, therefore, dressed in the absolute latest fashions, even a bit to the extreme; notice that they are very much trimmed in their dress. And sense Ruby follows Pearl's lead, she dresses like Pearl.

Esther Summerson from Bleak House (2005)

Esther, like Fanny Price, is a modest character (however, she isn't as shy as Fanny). Save for a little bit of lace at the neckline, Esther is dressed without very much trim. Her clothes are always modest and aren't extreme. 

Molly Gibson, Cynthia Kirkpatrick, and Hyacinth Kirkpatrick Gibson from Wives and Daughters

Just look at the way these three ladies dress in this picture. Molly if very simply dressed while Cynthia and Hyacinth are dressed very opulently (just look at their hair!). Cynthia, being more worldly than Molly, is more decoratively dressed. Since Hyacinth always puts on airs (c'mon, she changed her name from Clare to Hyacinth), she is also very decoratively dressed (dare I say gaudy?) But Molly, who doesn't have nearly as many dark secrets as Cynthia, is very simply dressed.

Sir Percy Blakeney from The Scarlet Pimpernel

Okay, I know Sir Percy is only pretending to be a fop to disguise the fact that he is the Scarlet Pimpernel, but look at the way he's dressed! It's just perfect! Lot's of lace on his cuffs and cravats! Absolutely perfect!

Which characters in what period dramas were dressed in the best way to compliment their personality? Are there any here that I listed? Or is there someone else that I didn't put in this post? Leave a comment!

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 God Bless,

Sunday: Guest Post by Miss Laurie - Period Drama Costume Designers - Period Drama Fashion Week

When Miss Elizabeth first invited me to guest post for her Period Drama Fashion Week I was excited but knowing little about fashion I was also unsure about what to post about. One of my favorite things to do is delve behind the scene of period dramas to learn interesting tidbits about the talented people who make a film come to life. So I decided to research the costume designers behind some of my favorite period dramas.

Delving into this world of costume designers I discovered that there's about seven or eight designers who have worked on multiple period dramas - so many of my favorites, it's amazing! So I'm super excited to share with ya'll about some of these talented ladies and gentlemen!

Jenny Beavan  Ms. Beavan was born in 1950 and is a native of London, England. She studied at London's Central School of Art and Design and has been designing costumes for TV films and movies since 1978. She has been nominated for Academy Awards eight times and won and Oscar once for A Room with a View (1985). She has also been awarded two BAFTAs and an Emmy Award for Emma (1997). Besides her work for films she also has designed for theater productions in London and New York City. Recognizable Work:

• A Room with a View (1985) - I don't recommend this but her Edwardian styles are gorgeous!
• Sense and Sensibility (1995) - two thumbs up for her Regency styles!
• Jane Eyre (1996)
• Emma (1997) -  Kate Beckinsale's dresses are so lovely!
• Ever After (1998) - Cinderella's ball gown with the wings is gorgeous! 
• Amazing Grace (2006) - Stunning Georgian styles for Ramola Garai!
• Cranford (2007) & Return to Cranford (2009) - the details for each character are amazing!
• Sherlock Holmes (2009) & Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows (2011)
• The King's Speech (2010)

Andrea Galer Ms. Galer was born in 1945 in Cambridge, England. Her first work was in the costume department of a film staring actress Julie Christie got her recognized as a great artist in 1973 and she's been designing costumes for TV and movies ever since. She has received many awards for her costumes including a BAFTA for Bleak House (2005) and an Emmy Award for Jane Eyre (2006). Over the past few years Ms. Galer's passion has been her 'Power of Hands' foundation which she has set up to help sustain traditional crafts, especially the lace makers in southern Sri Lanka who survived the 2004 tsunami. When designing for films she tries to use as much handmade lace and other handmade textiles as possible to encourage handcrafters. Many of the actors who have worn her costumes in films have helped with fundraising by modeling her costumes at private functions and for photo shoots. Her costumes are on exhibit at places like The Jane Austen Centre in Bath, England where some of her Regency designs can be purchased. Recognizable Work:

• Mansfield Park (1999) - don't recommend but the costumes are stunning.
• The Way We Live Now (2001) - amazing late Victorian dresses, the yards of fabric!
• He Knew He Was Right (2004) - beautiful dresses on the leading ladies!
• Bleak House (2005) - so glad she won a BAFTA for this, her work is amazing!
• Jane Eyre (2006)
• Persuasion (2007) - notice lace sleeves when Anne plays the piano, the lace was handmade!
• Miss Austen Regrets (2008) - more handmade lace is featured in this TV film.
• Agatha Christie's Poirot (five TV movies from 1995-2008)
• Marple (2009, four TV movies)
• Garrow's Law (2009 TV series) - don't necessarily recommend this but the Georgian styles are exquisite.

Mike O'Neill  Not much information is available about Mr. O'Neill but he is British, I believe, and has designed costumes for TV and movies since 1990. In 2007 he was awarded by the Costume Designers Guild for best costumes in a Miniseries or TV Film for his amazing work on Elizabeth I (2005). Recognizable Work:

• Our Mutual Friend (1998) - Bella Wilfur's gowns are exquisite!
• David Copperfield (1999) 
• Daniel Deronda (2002) - Ramola Garai's late Victorian gowns are stunning!
• North & South (2004) - I love Margaret's gowns!
• Elizabeth I (2005) - starring Helen Mirren, haven't seen this but the gowns are amazing to look at.
• Mansfield Park (2007) - Mary Crawford's dresses are quite lovely. Also a lot of reused costumes in this film.

Rosalind Ebbutt  Again, not much information is available for Ms. Ebbutt but I'd assume from her resume that she is a native of the UK. Her costumes have been featured in TV and movies since the early 1980's. She has revieved one BAFTA award and been nominated for five others, she was also nominated for an Emmy Award for her costumes in Emma (2009). Her Emma (2009) costumes were on exhibit at Chawton Cottage, the Jane Austen's House Museum in 2010. Recognizable Work:

• The Buccaneers (1995) - read Miss Elizabeth's review here.
• The Tenant of Wildfell Hall (1996) - not the best but the costumes are lovely.
• Vanity Fair (1998) - considered classic British drama, the story isn't great but the costumes are and have been reused in many other period dramas.
• Oliver Twist (1999) 
• Emma (2009) - my favorite, love Emma's wardrobe!
• Downton Abbey (2011 TV series) - amazing Edwardian fashions!

Phyllis Dalton Ms. Dalton was born 1925 in London England. She was awarded the M.B.E. (Member of the Order of the British Empire) in the 2002 Queen's Birthday Honours for her services to the Film Industry as a Costume Designer. What interested me in her was that I was looking up who designed the fabulous fashions for The Scarlet Pimpernel (1982) and was amazed to discover some of her other credits were classic films I love. Recognizable Work:

• The Scarlet Pimpernel (1982) - Odd's fish m'dear! To think that Sir Percy's cravats were entirely her invention! :)
• Much Ado About Nothing (1993) - Emma Thompson and Kate Beckinsale have pretty white dresses and the men have charming uniforms.
• Henry V (1989) - haven't seen this in a long time, Emma Thompson and Kenneth Branagh.
• The Princess Bride (1987) - Buttercup's dresses are gorgeous!
• Oliver! (1968) - Yep, the musical! Can you believe it?
• Lawrence of Arabia (1962) - Classic TV, those desert robes are iconic.

Alexandra Byrne  Ms. Byrne was born in 1962 and is a UK native. She trained on the Motley Theatre Design Course before embarking on her career as a costume designer in film in the early 1990's. She was nominated for four Academy Awards and won one for Elizabeth: The Golden Age. What interested me was her vast range of costume design - from Jane Austen's Regency, to bold Victorian era musicals to action heroes! Her costumes are always extremely detailed and tailored to the characters who wear them. Recognizable Work:

• Persuasion (1995) - My favorite! I love the details on Anne's dresses especially.
• Hamlet (1996) - Stunning Edwardian styles.
• Finding Neverland (2004) 
• The Phantom of the Opera (2004) - Amazing dresses for Roxanne and the rest of the theatre company!
• Thor (2011) & The Avengers (2012) - Hard to believe but I guess it takes as much talent to make well-made action hero costumes as it does to make Victorian ballgowns! 

Martha Mann & Ruth Secord I was beginning to think all costume designers were British until I remembered the gorgeous costumes in Anne of Green Gables and other Sullivan Entertainment productions. Two ladies stood out among the four who worked on the Road To Avonlea TV Series: Martha Mann and Ruth Secord. Martha Mann's Work:

• Anne of Green Gables (1985) - Won Best Costume Design for the 1986 Gemini Awards!
• Anne of Green Gables: The Sequel (1986) 
• Looking For Miracles (1989) - Depression era, sweet story.
• Road to Avonlea (1990-1996 TV series)
• Lantern Hill (1990) - based on L.M. Montgomery's Jane of Lantern Hill, a favorite with my family.
• Anne of Green Gables: A New Beginning (2008)

Ruth Secord's Work:

• Road to Avonlea (1990-1996 TV series)
• Happy Christmas, Miss King (1998)
• Anne of Green Gables: The Continuing Story (2000)
• Wind At My Back (1996-2001 TV series) - Depression era, almost as good as Road to Avonlea and a new favorite of mine.

It was so much fun learning more about these talented costume designers who add so much detail to each and every piece they create. I hope you enjoyed learning about the costume designers as much as I did.  Many actors seem to mention in behind-the-scenes interviews that their favorite part of acting in period dramas are the costumes because they really help them get into character. Let's hear a big round of applause for the talented costume designers who help bring our favorite period drama characters to life!

[Roar of Applause here]

Which costume designer listed above has made your favorite costumes? Many thanks to Miss Elizabeth for inviting me to guest post, it was a real delight! Very Truly Your's, Miss Laurie

Miss Laurie is the author of Old-Fashioned Charm where she blogs about Jane Austen, period dramas, classic literature and everything old-fashioned under the sun.

Miss Elizabeth Bennet: Thank you, Miss Laurie, for guest posting during Period Drama Fashion Week!

Elizabeth Bennet's Summer White Gown

Full Front View: The fabric is partially see through, so a petticoat is required for this dress. There is trim at the bottom of the dress that runs perpendicular to the design of the fabric (more on the fabric design below). The sleeves are 3/4 sleeves.

Front View: The lines of the fabric run vertically on the dress. There is not much of a puff to the sleeve.

Back View: There are four buttons to fasten the back together. The back of the skirt is gathered.

Partial Side View/Front View: The front of the bodice is gathered a little bit.